Tag Archive: Easy

Measure Your Lawn the Easy Way

Measure Your Lawn the Easy Way

After you have chosen the right fertilizer, fungicide, herbicide or insecticide to apply to your landscape, the question becomes: how much do I buy? Labels on these products will tell you how many square feet it will cover – so that leads to the next question: how many square feet of lawn do I have?

Here’s an easy way to determine your square footage. This online tool from Sod Solutions uses GIS mapping to figure it out from the comfort of your lounge chair.

On this front page, search for your address.

A bird’s eye view of your property comes up. Zoom in by using the + sign in the lower right corner of the screen.

Plot points on the area you want to measure. This makes it so easy to measure those curved and odd-shaped areas!

The calculation of the area in square feet, yards, and acres is displayed on the left side. The perimeter is also calculated; that might be handy for determining the length of a fence line.

For more information:

Your Florida Lawn website

The Florida Fertilizer Label

Interpreting Pesticide Label Wording

 

 

 

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Author: Mary Derrick – mderrick@ufl.edu

Residential Horticulture Extension Agent for Santa Rosa County

Mary Derrick

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2017/08/25/measure-your-lawn-the-easy-way/

Composting Made Easy

Composting Made Easy

vermicompost layer mcj

Red wigglers hanging through the bottom bin of a “Worm Factory” vermicompost system. Photo by Molly Jameson.

What if I told you there was a way to create compost indoors? No pitchfork required, no hot steamy temperatures, a simple mix of ingredients, and it would fit right under your kitchen sink? As long as you can convince your family to have worms in the house… you can start vermicomposting.

Vermicomposting uses a type of worm called red wigglers. These worms specialize in digesting organic matter, can digest their own body weight in food each day, and can double their population within months. It is, therefore, a wonderful way to responsibly dispose of food waste and can reduce your garbage by more than a third. Microorganisms inside the worms are actually doing most of the work, and the “castings” excreted are teaming with beneficial microbes and nutrients that will condition your soil and make the plants in your garden shine.

You can easily construct a vermicompost bin at home, but you can also purchase one online. Bins should hold about five gallons for one to two people or ten gallons for three to four (Rubbermaid containers work nicely). Your container should not exceed 12 inches in depth, as red wigglers do not like to burrow deeply. You will also want good aeration, so drill holes in the bottom of the bin and either place the bin in another container or put the bin on bricks and use a tray underneath to capture escaped materials. Either way, you will want a lid – as worms do not like light and need moisture – but they also need to breathe, so make sure it is not airtight. Be sure your bin is never in direct sunlight or in a location that regularly exceeds 80°F.

To get started, you will need about 1,000 worms, which weighs about one pound. Red wigglers can also be purchased online, at local nurseries, and some bait shops. Better yet – if you know vermicompost enthusiasts, they may be happy to share.

Before you purchase your worms, you want to prepare your worm bedding. Shredded newspaper and coconut fiber (coir) – which you can find at your local nursery – work great. You will also need to add a small scoop of garden soil to inoculate your bin with microbes. To get started, lightly moisten your bedding material and fill your bin about two-thirds full.

vermicompost hand mcj

Finished worm castings will be dark, slightly moist, and will have an earthy smell. Photo by Molly Jameson.

Now it is time to add the food. Worms love vegetable scraps, most fruits, moldy bread, coffee filters and grounds, tea bags, and crushed eggshells. Chop their food into small pieces for fastest consumption. Foods to avoid include meat, dairy, large amount of citrus, and onion peels. Start out slow, and put the chopped food in the corner of your worm bin. Once your worms are settled, maintain the bin as half bedding, half food scraps. If your bin looks too dry, add more food. If your bin looks too wet, add more bedding or hold back on food a few days. Bad odors will develop only if the worms are overfed.

Give your worm bin about three to four months, and then you can begin to harvest. Add a handful of castings to potting mix or a thin layer directly to your garden. Give vermicomposting a try – your plants will thank you, your trash will not stink, and you will reduce your global impact.

 

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Author: Molly Jameson – mjameson@ufl.edu

Molly Jameson

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2015/09/03/composting-made-easy/

5 Easy Steps to Save for Big Ticket Items

Large Screen TV

Large Screen TV

Very few of us have money ready to cover an emergency, never mind the money for the larger purchases we’d like to make. This is why it’s so important to prioritize savings to cover both the items you need as well as those you want.

Whether you’re saving for a new computer or a car, the security deposit for an apartment or a house down payment, a little planning and an easy-to-maintain budget will be instrumental in making your big ticket purchase a savings reality. With these direct and easy steps, big ticket items don’t have to be limited to big dreams:

Set Your Goal. It’s easy to keep dreaming of the things you want or even things you might need, but making it a point to establish your big ticket item as an actual savings goal is a necessary first step in making the goal a reality.

  1. Do Your Research. Start with the most important question: how much is your large purchase going to cost? Some items, like a computer or a security deposit, will have a set dollar amount that you’ll need to save for, while other items, like a car or a home, will need to include associated costs for maintenance, insurance, and taxes/fees.
  2. Make a Plan. Once you know your goal and all of the costs associated with that goal, it’s time to dig into your BUDGET to determine how much you’ll be able to save each month. You might need to make some changes to your spending to make savings (or additional savings) happen. Dividing your goal’s costs by the amount you’ll be able to save will also let you know how long you’ll need to save. When you know these two items, head over to AmericaSaves.org to take the pledge and put your savings plan into action.
  3. Automate Your Savings. Start a good saving habit by automatically moving the predetermined amount into your savings account each month. Employer-based direct deposit can move the amount straight from your paycheck into your savings account or you can set up an automatic transfer through your banking institution. Regardless of which method you choose, be sure to keep your savings in a separate savings account to watch your money accumulate with interest (and the harder to access those funds, the better).
  4. Earmark windfall income. Depending on how long you’ve determined it will take to reach your savings goals, you may want to plan to move any additional unbudgeted income directly into savings. Receiving an end of year bonus? How about a tax refund? Since those funds aren’t a part of your established budget, you won’t miss the additional income by moving a portion of it into savings – plus, you’ll cut the time it takes to reach your goal!

To learn more about saving for a large purchase and take the America Saves pledge, visit AmericaSaves.org. Article adapted from AmericaSaves.org Saving for large purchases.

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Author: Elizabeth – gorimani@ufl.edu

FCS faculty with University of Florida/IFAS Extension in Gadsden County
http://gadsden.ifas.ufl

Elizabeth

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2015/08/29/5-easy-steps-to-save-for-big-ticket-items/

Easy Roses for Small Spaces

Easy Roses for Small Spaces

Peach Drift Rose blooming in Quincy at the UF/IFAS NFREC

Peach Drift® Rose blooming in Quincy at the UF/IFAS NFREC Photo: J.McConnell, UF/IFAS

Growing roses in the South can have challenges and many gardeners think that they are just too high maintenance to plant. Plant developers are aware of this opinion and have worked to develop low maintenance roses that can make a novice gardener look like a pro.

The trend in horticulture is to develop and release plant series where closely related plants have similar characteristics but offer some diversity such as different flower color and size. A new series that is performing well in North Florida is Drift® Groundcover Roses. Available with flower colors ranging from white, yellow, pink, apricot, to red. All exhibit a low growing habit and will remain under three feet tall and spread up to four feet wide. Flowers are born in dense clusters for most of the year, only taking a break in the winter months.

Although not completely disease free, these roses do show resistance to rust, powdery mildew, and black spot which are common problems with roses. Deadheading is not necessary, but can be done to increase bloom and keep plants looking tidy. One of the best characteristics of the Drift® Groundcover Rose series is that they don’t get very tall, so they fit in small spaces. If you are looking for incredible color in a sunny site with limited space give this series a try.

Although low maintenance, roses do still require some attention, for more information read Growing Roses in Florida.

 

Coral Drift® Rose Peach Drift® Rose Coral Drift® Rose Coral Drift® Rose Coral Drift® Rose Peach Drift® Rose Peach Drift Rose blooming in Quincy at the UF/IFAS NFREC

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Author: Julie McConnell – juliebmcconnell@ufl.edu

UF/IFAS Bay County Horticulture Extension Agent I

Julie McConnell

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2015/05/06/easy-roses-for-small-spaces/

Onions: Taste Good, Easy to Grow, and Many Varieties from which to Choose

Onions: Taste Good, Easy to Grow, and Many Varieties from which to Choose

Onions are simple to grow and take up very little space.  This is an easy selection for a beginning gardener.

Onions are simple to grow and take up very little space. This is an easy selection for a beginning gardener.

The winter weather is finally giving way to springtime. While temperatures have been erratic, the rain has been sufficient.
There are still plenty of cool season leafy garden crops in production, but they will not last long as the temperatures rise.

One in-ground selection does offer some options. Onions planted last fall provide the greens and the bulb for a nutritional flavor enhancer from salads to a variety of dishes.

The common onion, Allium cepa, has many varieties within the species, and is grown and consumed worldwide. Garlic, chives and leeks are in the same genus as onions with their use similar to onions, but not nearly as frequent.

This popular and simple to grow fall vegetable easily handled the harshest north Florida winters. The multiple mornings of subfreezing temperatures and hard frost had no appreciable effect on this versatile vegetable.

Most regional soils can provide a good growing medium for onions. The lack of sulfur in the dirt and the excellent drainage are two requirements for producing a potentially mild bulb, depending on the cultivar planted.

The high levels of available phosphate in most soils also are an advantage when growing onions.

The Granex yellow onion cultivar is likely the current favorite among many gardeners. This is the same cultivar which produces some the premium branded mild onions on the market today.

Onions can be planted from August to March, either by seed or bulbs. Two inch spacing between plants provide enough space to grow and does not waste limited cultivation area.

Days to harvest depend on how the onion is to be used. Green onions, sometimes known as scallions, take four months with bulb onions taking five months or longer.In reality, onions are biennial but are usually grown as annuals.

Historical evidence of onion usage dates back 7,000 years to the Bronze Age. It is uncertain if these bulbs were cultivated or collected in the wild.

Their ease of transportation, long shelf life, and many uses made them an ideal candidate for long distance travel and trade in the days before refrigeration and high-speed movement of vegetables. Every culture and nation has its own special uses for onions.

Today’s onions provide the consumer with a combination of excellent nutrition, and good storage and handling qualities while enhancing the flavor of many meats, vegetables and salads. The bulbs come in three colors (red, yellow and white) which add to the visual quality of the dining experience.

Onions deliver vitamins B-6, C and Folic Acid. They are naturally low in sodium and fats, and contain four percent sugar.

Onions have compounds such as favonoids and phenolics which have had numerous positive health benefits attributed to them. Their consumption can be part of a healthy diet.

Properly handled onions have a potentially long storage life. Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area with 45 to 55 degrees the ideal temperature range.

To learn more about growing onions grown in north Florida, visit your UF/IFAS County Extension office or read the Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide.

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Author: Les Harrison – harrisog@ufl.edu

Les Harrison is the UF/IFAS Wakulla County Extension Director, Agriculture and Natural Resources. He works with small and medium sized producers in the Big Bend region of north Florida on a wide range of topics. He has a Master’s of Science Degree in Agricultural Economics from Auburn University and a Bachelor of Science Degree in Journalism from the University of Florida.

Les Harrison

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2015/03/24/onions-taste-good-easy-to-grow-and-many-varieties-from-which-to-choose/

Smilax: Easy to Find Now, but Hard to Endure

Smilax: Easy to Find Now, but Hard to Endure

Smilax is noted for its multiple thorns which scratch anyone who comes into contact

Smilax is noted for its multiple thorns which scratch anyone who comes into contact

The yo-yo thermometer readings make it confusing for the panhandle’s human residents when choosing proper wardrobe selections. With few exceptions, the deciduous plants and trees continue to wait for consistently warmer weather and longer days before covering their trunks and stems with foliage.

The current season’s uncloaking allows for easy examination of the structure and configuration of what will be green and hidden in a few months. This exposure also reveals potentially painful hazards in the native landscape.

Smilax, the sinewy vine, puts up an intimidating barrier to man and beast. Also known as green briar, cat briar and other sometimes graphic terms, the native plant thrives in this area.

In Greek mythology, Smilax was a wood nymph who was transformed into a bramble after the unfulfilled and tragic love of a mortal man. Her final form in this fable was a reflection of her character.

Botanically, smilax is found in tropic to temperate zones. There are about 350 species worldwide and 12 in Florida, with nine being common.
The plant is very vigorous and is equipped with an enviable array of survival traits. It is ready to take every advantage to flourish and inhabit new territory, even under the most unfavorable conditions.

Individual plants can withstand harsh treatment and environments. If burned or mowed to the soil’s surface, they will regenerate from a segmented rhizome root system. Rhizome roots are the subterranean stems which spread roots and runners from its bulbous root nodes.

If pulled up, the rhizome root system will separate at joints. Even the smallest piece of root left in the dirt will generate a new plant.
Smilax has the additional resource of extra-floral nectaries, nectar-producing glands physically separate from the flowers. These nectaries may function as an organ for the plant to rid itself of metabolic wastes and/or to attract beneficial insects for pollination and defense.

Ants are especially attracted to the extra-floral nectaries in smilax and frequently establish mounds close by. The ants defend the smilax from herbivores which eat the leaves, if they can get past the thorns.

In addition to spreading by its root system, smilax produces berries which contain a seed. The berries appear in late summer or early autumn and ripen to a blue-black color.

The berries are usually consumed in winter after the smilax loses it leaves. Birds and animals will deposit the seed at a new site. Best chances for the seed to germinate occur after it is exposed to a freeze, as the panhandle has recently experienced.

Smilax vines will climb up trees, fence post, and any other stationary object to get better sun exposure. They have been known to reach over 30 feet in height, but do not tend to kill their host by shading out the sun.

Ants commonly use the vines as a readily available pathway on foraging trips. Ants may establish colonies in above ground locations, courtesy of smilax vines which provide a wide-reaching pathway.

Smilax can be controlled with some broadleaf herbicides, but repeated applications will be necessary. The best time to apply herbicides is in the early spring when the first leaves appear.

Once the leaves return, smilax can be difficult to identify and control, hidden in all the common greenery.
To learn more about smilax in Panhandle Florida read the Key to Nine Common Smilax Species of Florida or contact your local UF/IFAS Extension Office.

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Author: Les Harrison – harrisog@ufl.edu

Les Harrison is the UF/IFAS Wakulla County Extension Director, Agriculture and Natural Resources. He works with small and medium sized producers in the Big Bend region of north Florida on a wide range of topics. He has a Master’s of Science Degree in Agricultural Economics from Auburn University and a Bachelor of Science Degree in Journalism from the University of Florida.

Les Harrison

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2015/02/24/smilax-easy-to-find-now-but-hard-to-endure/

Summer Snacking Made Fun: Easy treats for busy kids

From the sand to the ocean, camp to the pool, water parks to the playground – summer usually means high-energy for kids enjoying time off from school. It’s a good idea to keep on hand a stash of cooling, nutritious snacks to satisfy ferocious appetites and picky palates.

One such snack for high energy kids is called BANANA SUSHI… Sushi is a Japanese food consisting of cooked rice, combined with other ingredients, usually raw fish or other seafood. Sushi is unique based on the preparation method and how it’s rolled up and sliced into bite size pieces. This is a unique teaching opportunity to discuss the Japanese culture and its different style of foods and eating methods.  When you use this recipe, explain to the kids they will be making their own fun and tasty version of Sushi using bananas.

 

banana sushi

Banana Sushi

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Total Time: 5 minutes

Ingredients:

Banana, peanut butter, rice krispies cereal

Directions:

  1. Coat a banana with peanut butter. (For a cool treat on an especially hot day freeze the banana several hours before preparing.)
  2. Roll in rice krispies cereal.
  3. Slice into bite size pieces (like sushi).
  4. Eat and Enjoy!
  5. Encourage the kids to use chopsticks and to learn more about Japanese eating utensils.

 

Here are some more healthy and refreshing DIY treats that kids of all ages can prepare on their own or in group settings such as day camps and 4-H club meetings:

•Make your own trail mix with a combination of nuts, dried fruit, dark chocolate chips, and cereal pieces. Try a selection of several healthy cereals, pretzels, nuts, and crackers.

•Dried fruit – banana chips, mango, and apple, papaya, pear, or peach slices.

•Plain popcorn sprinkled with Parmesan cheese or flavorful spices.

•Baked pita or bagel chips dipped in cool, refreshing hummus.

•Skewer cubes of firm cheese (cheddar, Swiss, Monterey Jack), alternated with chunks of fresh summer fruits.

•Fresh fruit salad – Cut up apples, pineapple, bananas, oranges, and berries or any fresh, in-season fruits. Throw in dried cranberries or raisins, and sunflower seeds or slivered almonds. Top with a dollop of yogurt.

•Berry parfaits – Layer fresh berries with granola and yogurt or freshly whipped cream.

Of course, as you make theses treats with your 4-Hers be sure to incorporate the importance of their nutritional value to their daily intake based on the current MyPlate recommendation. You can find more kid-friendly information on MyPlate at http://www.choosemyplate.gov.

 

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Author: metaylor – metaylor@ufl.edu

metaylor

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2013/07/19/summer-snacking-made-fun-easy-treats-for-busy-kids/

Grow A Salad This Winter; Lettuce Easy To Grow, Delicious

Cool days and chilly nights are just the kind of weather lettuce enjoys. Lettuce is a vegetable that is easy to grow, delicious and so attractive that any gardener – whether you have a vegetable garden, flower garden or even a garden in containers on a balcony – should include it in the garden. Vegetable gardening in containers for balconies and other small areas is an interesting topic in and of itself. Dr James Stephens of the University of Florida has an excellent article you can find here if you would like more information on growing a mini-garden here in Florida.

According to references, lettuces were cultivated 3,000 years ago by the Babylonians and possibly earlier by the Chinese. Lettuce seeds were sealed in Egyptian tombs, and lettuces were served to Roman emperors. On European tables during the Middle Ages, lettuce was mostly eaten hot. By 1865 seed companies offered 113 kinds to America’s gardeners. Today lettuce is so popular that new and interesting varieties of lettuce appear in seed catalogs every year.

Although you may read about cultivating lettuce during the summer in northern states, our summer temperatures are way too high for lettuce to endure them. Lettuce is a cool-season crop here in North Florida. Our planting season extends from September through March, with harvest ending in May.

Garden lettuces can be divided into three classes based on habit of growth – leaf or looseleaf types, semi-heading types such as butterhead and romaine (or cos) and heading or crisphead types. Crisphead lettuces, such as the iceberg types available in supermarkets, are more of a challenge to grow here, so I recommend that you stay with the leaf and semi heading cultivars. Other than avoiding the heading types, feel free to try just about any cultivar that strikes your fancy.

Leaf lettuces are the most decorative, least demanding, and among the most heat-tolerant lettuces we can grow. This type of lettuce grows in a loose rosette of foliage, and the leaves can be smooth or crinkled, pointed, lobed, curled or ruffled. Foliage color runs from deep ruby red to dark green to pale greenish yellow, with just about every combination in between.

Leaf lettuces are fast maturing and can be ready to begin harvesting just 40 days after planting. Harvesting is best done by cropping the plants regularly. When cropping, only the largest leaves are removed, which allows the plants to continue to grow and produce. A bed of leaf lettuce harvested this way can produce salads for a month or more. With that in mind, it’s a good idea to plant several crops in succession through the growing season for continued harvests.

The butterhead lettuces have soft, tender leaves and relatively loose heads. Their fragile leaves make them difficult to ship and pricey at the supermarket. But these delicious butterheads are quite easy to grow. They can be harvested by cropping, or an entire plant may be harvested as the center leaves grow over and form a loose head. Varieties to choose include Bibb and Buttercrunch.

Romaine, or cos, lettuces are tall, upright and thick-leaved; their thick midribs and sweet, juicy texture have made them especially prized for salads. They range in size from tiny 8-inch heads to large heads that can reach well over a foot tall. The foliage can be red or green, smooth or ruffled.

 

Romaine, or cos, lettuces are tall, upright and thick-leaved; their thick midribs and sweet, juicy texture have made them especially prized for salads.

Romaine lettuces are especially prized for salads.

Lettuce transplants of various types generally are available in area nurseries and can be planted now through late March. You will find a much larger selection of cultivars available from seeds, which may be obtained locally in seed racks or from mail-order companies.

Plant lettuce seeds into well-prepared beds that have been amended by digging in a 2-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost or rotted manure, and an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Lettuce seeds need light to germinate, so they are simply pressed or lightly raked into the soil surface. Water frequently until they germinate, and once they come up thin the plants to the appropriate spacing. The average spacing is about 10 inches between plants.

For best quality, lettuce must be encouraged to grow rapidly. This is accomplished by keeping the plants well watered and fertilized. Water thoroughly during dry weather, and keep the plants mulched to prevent drought stress. Side-dress with granular fertilizer every six weeks or apply a soluble 20-20-20 every two weeks during the growing season. Stress from drought, heat or low fertility encourages the lettuce to become bitter.

Even though lettuce is best grown here in the winter, hard freezes can damage the foliage. If temperatures in the mid-20s or lower are predicted, throw a layer of pine straw or sheets of fabric over the plants to prevent frost burn.

Lettuce is wonderful harvested moments before the dressing is applied and the salad is served. Looseleaf lettuce is best harvested by cropping. Butterhead can be harvested by cropping or cutting the entire plant, and romaine is best if the entire plant is harvested when ready. All lettuce should be harvested by early to mid-May, since high temperatures will cause the lettuce to become increasingly bitter and to bolt (send up a flower stalk).

Its beauty, ease of culture and delicious foliage make lettuce an excellent choice for any gardener. Even you flower gardeners should give it a try – you’ll be glad you did.

PG

Author: Robert Trawick – rob.trawick@ufl.edu

Robert Trawick

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2013/01/24/grow-a-salad-this-winter-lettuce-easy-to-grow-delicious/

Fertilizers Are Easy

Rob Trawick
Extension Horticulturist
Jackson County
rob.trawick@ufl.edu

Understanding the numbers on a bag of fertilizer helps you apply the right amount and ratio of fertilizer your yard and garden need. Fertilizers come in different strengths and blends, with the three numbers on the bags showing the percentage by weight of the three major nutrients.

The first number of the left-to-right sequence always is the percentage of nitrogen (N). The second is the percentage of phosphorus (P) as expressed in phosphate, which is not pure phosphorus. The third number is the percentage of potassium (K) as expressed in the oxide called K20 equivalent.

Recommended amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are almost always given as these equivalents rather than the true elements. The higher the number, the stronger that nutrient is in the fertilizer, so you can apply more of a weaker fertilizer to get the amount of nutrient needed or less of a stronger fertilizer. For example, about 7 pounds of cow manure can substitute for 1 pound of 8-8-8. Just look at the analysis on the bag. Blended fertilizers have more than one nutrient, such as 0-20-20 or 8-24-24. A complete fertilizer is one that has some of all three nutrients, like 8-24-24.

Muriate of potash is 0-0-60, and triple super phosphate is 0-46-0. Some nitrogen sources are ammonium nitrate 33-0-0, ammonium sulfate 20-0-0 or urea 46-0-0.
Other fertilizer materials are potassium sulfate (0-0-50), DAP (18-46-0), IBDU (31-0-0), SCU (32-0-0), UF (38-0-0), bone meal (2-20-0) or cottonseed meal (6-3-2). These materials are considered slow- or controlled-release fertilizers

Dividing 100 by the percentage of the nutrient in the fertilizer gives the
pounds of the fertilizer needed to supply 1 pound of that nutrient. For example, with a bag of 8-8-8 fertilizer if you divide 100 by 8 you’ll get 12.5, which is the number of pounds that will supply a pound each of nitrogen, phosphate and potassium oxide.
The nutrient numbers on the bag also are ratios to one another.  8-8-8 is a 1-1-1 ratio, while 5-10-15 is a 1-2-3 ratio. Different crops and soils may need different ratios.
A vegetable garden of average fertility may use a 1-1-1 ratio, a 1-2-1 ratio or a 1-3-3 ratio for sweet potatoes, peas and beans. Lawns generally like a 3-1-2 ratio, but centipede grass fertilizers are often a 1-0-1 ratio.

The best way to determine the nutrient needs of your grass, garden or crop is to have the soil scientifically tested. Your county agent can tell you how to take a representative sample to send to the University of Florida’s Soil Testing Lab. Kits and instructions can be found at your county extension office. Test results and fertilizer recommendations matched to the crop to be grown will be returned to the grower.

 

Gardening in the Panhandle

Permanent link to this article: http://franklin.ifas.ufl.edu/newsletters/2012/03/13/fertilizers-are-easy/